If you're planning to tackle this project then you most likely already have all the skills necessary to make whatever changes you deem necessary to make this prop suitable for your specific situation and needs. Be safe and be smart! Start building yoru Hidden Blade by taking apart your drawer slide. The slide is built with little tabs of metal that are bent up to keep the inside parts of the slide from comming out, so the first thing you have to do is find those tabs of metal and pound them down flat with your hammer.
The tabs are located on the front and back of the outside slide, if you're having a hard time finding them, use the pictures for reference. Once the tabs are pounded flat the drawer slide will pull apart. As you dismantle the slide the bearings that sit between the inside and outside slides will fall out, use a small dish to catch them as they fall, don't worry if you lose a few, you won't need them all.
When everything is taken apart you should have the parts shown in the last picture of this step, the outside slide, the inside slide, the bearing track, the bearings, and the bracket. Now that your Draw Slide is disassembled it's time to start cutting the pieces apart to make the parts we need. Take a look at the pictures to see what to cut and where to cut, cut on the black sharpie lines and use the ruler for measurement reference. Use your Dremel Tool with the Metal Cutting Disks or hacksaw to make the cuts and always remember to measure from the correct end.
Once your cuts are finished you may have to file or sand the raw metal edges so that they aren't rough and sharp. Don't forget to wear safety glasses! With the drawer slide parts cut it's time to move on to the blade. Start by cutting off the part of the blade that went through the handle so that you only have the blade left. Next you need to drill holes to mount the blade to the modified inside slide.
Use the holes on the modified inside slide as a template for where the holes in the blade should go. Mark the holes with a sharpie and then use a center punch to make an indentation so that your drill bit stays in place as you drill.
You will be using your counter sunk screws to hold these parts together once the holes are drilled so use a bit that is slightly larger than size of your counter sunk screws shaft to drill the holes.
Note: Even though the blade is from a replica dagger it may still be a hard type of steel so take your time when drilling and use a lot of lubricant to keep the friction and heat to a minimum, otherwise you'll wear out your drill bit quickly. Note: DO NOT try to hold something you are drilling with your bare hands, doing so can result in serious damage to your hands or loss of fingers.
Always use a vise or clamps to hold the piece you are drilling and keep your hands well out of the way. Lastly use your counter sunk screws, washers, and nuts to assembly the blade as shown in the pictures. With the blade assembly finished, there are only a few more things to do before we can assemble the Hidden Blade mechanism. Making the back stop of the Hidden Blade This will be the piece that keeps the blade from shooting out the back of the hidden blade when it is retracted.
Start by drilling a hole in the center of your modified bracket. Next lay this piece on top of the outside slide as shown in the picture and use it as a template to drill a hole through the outside slide so the two can be bolted together. Drilling holes for attaching the Hidden Blade to the bracer Take this time to drill a few holes down the center of the outside slide, 3 or 4 holes should be plenty.
These holes will be used to mount the Hidden Blade to the bracer later on in this instructable. Drill the holes just big enough for the shank of the rapid rivets to fit through.
Now that you have all the cutting and drilling done it is time to reassembly the blade mechanism so that you can move on to the next step, creating the blade lock. To reassembly the blade mechanism reinsert the ball bearings into the ball bearing track and slide it into the outside slide as shown in the picture. Once you have the bearings and bearing track installed into the outside slide, insert the blade assembly into the bearing track.
Lastly install the bracket onto the back of the outside slide using a bolt through the holes we drilled in the previous step. If this is a bit confusing take some time to examine the pictures and you should be able to see how it all goes together. You should now have an almost complete Hidden Blade. Take a moment to admire your workmanship and get a feel for how the Hidden Blade will extend and retract.
Once you're done, slide the blade out so that it is fully extended and get ready to create the blade locking mechanism. The blade locking mechanism works to keep the blade locked out once it has been fully extended. The lock is made of a 3 inch length of hack saw blade that has had the teeth ground away. Once the blade is fully extended the flat spring snaps into a recess drilled in the underside of the blade which keeps the blade locked open until the flat spring is pulled down, releasing the blade.
Alright this is the home stretch! Simply take your coil spring and bend down a few coils at either end so that you can loop them around the bolt posts on the blade assembly and bracket as shown in the picture. This spring will act as the retracting force that pulls the hidden blade into the closed position.
You may have to remove a few coils from the spring with your wire cutters to adjust the tension so that the blade retracts with enough force to completely close. Once you have the spring adjusted to the proper tension simply screw nuts onto the posts where the spring is attached to hold it in place. And that's it! Part one of the build is finished and you should now have a functional Hidden Blade Mechanism.
To deploy the blade give it a quick flick of the wrist, the force of gravity will overpower the coil spring letting the blade deploy and allowing the flat spring to click into place locking the blade in the extended position.
When you want to retract the blade all you have to do is pull the flat spring out of the depression in the blade, and coil spring will pull the blade closed.
Later on in the Instructable we will be attaching a ring to the flat spring via a piece of string so that you can disengage the lock through the movement of your hand. On to making the bracer!! With the hidden blade mechanism finished it is time to move on to the bracer. The bracer is made of two pieces of leather, one that fits the underside of your arm and supports the hidden blade and another that fits the top of your arm and is more decorative. The two sections are attached to each other with button snaps so that it is easy to put on and take off the hidden blade.
The key to building a nice bracer is to design it to your measurements, so measure oftern and measure well! With these measurements create a pattern on your posterboard like the one pictured.
Note that the black marker lines are my measurements and the orange marker lines are the actual pattern. As the bracer wraps around your arm it helps to have the top and bottom arced as pictured so that they fit your wrist and forearm better.
Once you're pleased with your pattern cut it out and test fit it to your wrist, I found the sharp corners on my pattern to be uncomfortable so I rounded them off. Make adjustments until you are pleased with the fit and then set this part of the pattern aside. Grab another sheet of poster board and cut out a rectangle that is the same height as your bracer, 9 inches for me , with a width of about 4 inches, this will become the decorative top part of the bracer.
Using tape test fit the bottom and top of the bracer together on your arm so you can get a sense of what the bracer will look like and feel like.
If you're pleased with your patterns you can move on to the next step. Note that I made some decorative cuts in my top piece of poster board; these aren't necessary but they do add to the look of the finished bracer. Place your patterns on the leather and carefully trace around the outside edges using a pencil. Once your patterns are traced use your xacto knife to cut them out, note that leather can be difficult to cut so it is better to make several shallow passes with your blade as opposed to trying to cut the whole way through the leather on the first cut.
After you have finished cutting your leather bracer parts out it is time to create holes for the instalation of button snaps. To make your hole placements symeterical, fold your template in half down the middle, mark where you want the holes, use an awl to punch through both thicknesses of paper and then unfold.
Before installing button snaps consider what detail work you would like to do with your bracer. Snaps can get in the way of designs you may want to stamp into you leather so only install snaps once you are ready. I reareally don't see how they can concievably, with 12th century technology, deploy and retract that blade only when they want to. Yes again I know it's a video game, and it's fictional, and physics dont need to apply, but doesn't this bother anybody else?
Showing 1 - 4 of 4 comments. There is conceptual art about the hidden blades mechanisms in the different AC games, just search "hidden blade mechanism" in Google. How realistic is that conceptual art? I can't say for sure. As for the Altair hidden blade, there is a ring connected to the blade that goes in the pinky. Last edited by SillyWalk ; 30 Nov, am. The blade is triggered by a string.
You can't see that in the game but in the concept art it's how it is. The string that activates the blade is attached to a ring and when an assassin extend his finger with the ring on it, the blade comes out.
It's certainly possible and has a ton of proof on YouTube. Assassin's Creed forums are now archived and accessible in read-only mode, please go to the new platform to discuss the game. Thread: How does the Hidden Blade's mechanism work? How does the Hidden Blade's mechanism work? In one of the novels it says that the Hidden Blade is unleashed via a button being pushed by flexing a certain muscle on the forearm, but the novels aren't exactly the same as the games.
Also, various sources have shown the hidden blade to be extracted by a ring on the finger being pulled, but we never see this mechanism in the games. So, how does the mechanism of the Hidden Blade we see in the games work? Reply Share this post. It is really never revealed.
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